I used to have a longboard, but it wasn’t right. I was swayed by a shop to buy a board that was far too performancy for me, at a time when I couldn’t even catch a green wave. Instead of helping me progress, it held me back.

Frustrated with years of trying to manoeuvre a big board, I eventually went back to a minimal, and then bought a high volume smaller board in the hope that I’d actually be able to get it out the back.

I could, and having that smaller board has built up my confidence. I’ve caught some lovely waves on it, but the fact is I still don’t catch that many waves on it.

Back to the minimal

At the beginning of the summer I resigned myself to the fact I was going to have to go back to basics – increase my wave count, improve my pop ups and angle my takeoff better.

So back came the trusty minimal which I rode most of the summer. I caught hundreds of waves until I could actually pop up properly most of the time.

I also pushed myself to paddle out with it when it wasn’t super big, practising turtle rolls and getting countless face fulls of water. I now realise this something I realise I should have mastered before I ever considered buying a longboard the first time round.

A lucky mistake

One day the forecast was bigger, so I decided to try my smaller board again. Upon arriving at the beach it was actually super small, plus I had somehow forgotten my fins and leash. As I live over an hour away, there was no choice but to hire a board. Due to the tiny conditions I hired the longest board going. And I loved loved loved it. Longboards are so fun! I could catch even more waves, even earlier.

Since then I began a long search for a longboard (I was fairly wary of buying the wrong one) but I finally found a second hand beauty.

I’ve only used it a handful of times but already my longboard experience has been much more positive this time around, and I’m looking forward to more adventures with my new 9 foot+ friend.


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