I adore reading. It’s how I relax, and I’ll read (almost) anything; fiction, non-fiction, magazines, blogs, cereal packets. I’m not the most highbrow reader, however, and I’m most likely to be found reading chick lit or non-fiction. But if I can read chick lit or non-fiction that’s about surfing, that’s even better.

Surfing-related books I’ve read and loved


Swell by Lauren Davies

Swell by Lauren DaviesI wouldn’t feel right referring to this book as chick lit, as it’s so much more than a light and fluffy read. It follows the world tour and is therefore set in some fantastic locations. The author is married to a pro surfer, so the facts and terminology are obviously spot on. Yet even if this book was set around a completely different sport it would still be one of my favourites.

I also love Water Wings, another book by Lauren Davies which follows a not-so-natural surfer girl learning to surf in windswept Ireland.


Blue by Lisa Glass

Blue by Lisa GlassThis is actually Young Adult fiction and you do have suspend your disbelief a bit, but it’s a really enjoyable read. It’s set in Cornwall and the storyline is focused around surfing, what’s not to love?

There’s also the follow up to Blue, Air. I didn’t love it quite as much as Blue (there was a bit too much teenage angst and Miami is a weird location choice for a surfing book) but it was still a good read.


Let my people go surfing by Yvon Chouinard

Let my people go surfingThere’s not actually much surfing in this book, to be honest, but it’s a fascinating, thought-provoking and inspiring read that’d I’d highly recommend to anyone at all interested in business or the history of Patagonia.



Books I haven’t read yet, but are on my to-read list


Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan

Barbarian daysI listened to William speak on the Surf Simply podcast, and he sounds like a throughly interesting chap with a lot of stories to tell. As both a surfer and a New York Times writer, he’s somewhat uniquely placed to write about surfing without resorting to cliched surfer speak.



The History of Surfing by Matt Warshaw

The History of SurfingI’m a bit wary of this one, to be honest. A history of surfing doesn’t exactly sound like enthralling reading, but if the reviews are to be believed, this is actually a really good read and “The Most Important Surfing Book of All Time”, so I guess I should give it a try!




  1. Great post – this really made me smile as a fellow non high brow reader and lover of chick lit surf related fiction (and non fiction) – basically anything I can get my hands on! I loved Blue and Swell – have you read Air yet? (the follow up to Blue).

    Some other books you may like if you haven’t already read them – ‘To the Sea’ (Deirdre Riordan Hall), Cinderella in the Surf (Carly Syms) and Surf Mama (Wilma Johnson).

    • Hehe I’m glad it’s not just me! I wasn’t sure if I should admit it on the internet 🙂

      Ooh thanks for the recommendations, I’ve read Air (didn’t love it quite as much as Blue) but I haven’t tried the other three, will have to look them up!

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