I adore reading. It’s how I relax, and I’ll read (almost) anything; fiction, non-fiction, magazines, blogs, cereal packets. I’m not the most highbrow reader, however, and I’m most likely to be found reading chick lit or non-fiction. But if I can read chick lit or non-fiction that’s about surfing, that’s even better.
Surfing-related books I’ve read and loved
I wouldn’t feel right referring to this book as chick lit, as it’s so much more than a light and fluffy read. It follows the world tour and is therefore set in some fantastic locations. The author is married to a pro surfer, so the facts and terminology are obviously spot on. Yet even if this book was set around a completely different sport it would still be one of my favourites.
I also love Water Wings, another book by Lauren Davies which follows a not-so-natural surfer girl learning to surf in windswept Ireland.
This is actually Young Adult fiction and you do have suspend your disbelief a bit, but it’s a really enjoyable read. It’s set in Cornwall and the storyline is focused around surfing, what’s not to love?
There’s also the follow up to Blue, Air. I didn’t love it quite as much as Blue (there was a bit too much teenage angst and Miami is a weird location choice for a surfing book) but it was still a good read.
There’s not actually much surfing in this book, to be honest, but it’s a fascinating, thought-provoking and inspiring read that’d I’d highly recommend to anyone at all interested in business or the history of Patagonia.
Books I haven’t read yet, but are on my to-read list
I listened to William speak on the Surf Simply podcast, and he sounds like a throughly interesting chap with a lot of stories to tell. As both a surfer and a New York Times writer, he’s somewhat uniquely placed to write about surfing without resorting to cliched surfer speak.
I’m a bit wary of this one, to be honest. A history of surfing doesn’t exactly sound like enthralling reading, but if the reviews are to be believed, this is actually a really good read and “The Most Important Surfing Book of All Time”, so I guess I should give it a try!